A quarterly on the history and culture of beauty
Published independently

Customs and Rites

Ageing as a cultural construct

The idea that ageing is a biological fact with a fixed social meaning does not survive contact with the archive. Even the age at which old age begins has been legislated.

Worn ivory coloured rag paper with foxing spots and a soft deckle edge on a dark ground.
Foxing is a chemistry, not a failure. So, largely, is the visible change we call ageing.
In short

Old age as a social category with defined boundaries is substantially a product of institutional decisions, including pension ages, retirement rules and census categories, rather than a natural threshold. Historians including Pat Thane have shown that older people in earlier periods were not uniformly venerated or uniformly discarded, and that experience varied enormously by wealth, gender and family structure. The widespread belief that people in the past died in their thirties confuses life expectancy at birth with adult lifespan.

The most common single error in popular history is the belief that people in the past died young. It is repeated constantly, usually in the form that life expectancy in some earlier period was thirty or forty, with the implication that a person of fifty was a rarity and that old age is a modern invention.

The figure is real. The inference is wrong, and correcting it is the necessary first step to thinking about ageing at all.

Circulates, but unverified
The claim
In medieval or Roman times life expectancy was around thirty five, so hardly anybody lived to be old, and old age as we know it is a modern phenomenon.
Where it appears to come from
The figures come from genuine demographic estimates of life expectancy at birth, which are widely quoted without the qualifier. They appear in textbooks, documentaries and museum labels, and the inference about individual lifespans is drawn automatically by readers.
What is actually established
Established: life expectancy at birth in many pre modern populations was low, often in the thirties. Established: this figure is an average across all deaths and is dominated by infant and child mortality, which was extremely high. Established: a person who survived childhood had a reasonable prospect of living into their fifties, sixties or beyond, and populations contained substantial numbers of older people. Established: what modern medicine and sanitation changed most dramatically is the survival of infants, not the maximum human lifespan, which has changed comparatively little. Not established: that old people were rare. Parish registers, wills, census material and household listings show otherwise, and they are the evidence historians actually use.

Where old age begins, and who decided

If old age is not a fixed biological threshold, something has to set it, and in modern states that something is administrative.

In Britain the Old Age Pensions Act 1908 introduced a non contributory pension for people over seventy, subject to conditions. That single number did an enormous amount of work: it defined, for administrative purposes, when a person became old, and it did so on the basis of what the Treasury could afford rather than on any finding about human capacity. Pension ages have been moved repeatedly since, in both directions, for fiscal and demographic reasons, and each move has quietly redefined the category.

Retirement did something similar in employment. Compulsory retirement ages, where they existed, made old age a status you entered on a date rather than a condition you arrived at. In the United Kingdom the default retirement age was abolished in 2011, which means that for legal purposes the threshold has moved again, this time towards not existing.

Census categories, insurance tables, medical guidelines and marketing segments all draw their own lines, and none of them agrees with any other. There is no age at which a person becomes old. There is only a set of institutions each of which has picked a number for its own reasons.

Worn ivory coloured rag paper with foxing spots and a soft deckle edge.
Plate VI
Foxing is the rust coloured spotting that appears on old paper. It is caused by a combination of metallic impurities in the fibre, fungal activity and humidity, and it is entirely a property of the material and its storage rather than a defect in its manufacture. Conservators do not usually remove it. It is regarded as part of the object's history, and an over cleaned document is considered a loss. There is a serviceable analogy here, offered without a moral attached: the profession whose entire business is the preservation of surfaces has concluded that some changes are evidence rather than damage, and that intervening in them destroys information. What anyone does with their own face is a different matter entirely, and not this magazine's business.

The veneration myth

The second durable error is the belief that older people were venerated in the past and are disrespected now, usually accompanied by a gesture towards some other culture where matters are said to be better arranged.

The historical work does not support the simple version. Pat Thane's study of old age in English history, which is the standard survey, finds neither a golden age of respect nor a uniform history of neglect. What it finds is variation determined by resources: an older person with property, income or useful skills held authority, and one without them was dependent on family, on charity or on the poor law. Older women without property were among the most vulnerable people in early modern society, a vulnerability that intersected with witchcraft accusation in ways historians have examined closely.

The comparative claim is similarly unreliable. Anthropological literature on ageing across cultures records enormous variation, including societies with strong formal deference to elders that nonetheless treat particular categories of older people very poorly, and the practice generally diverges from the stated ideal. Wheeling out another culture as a reproach usually says more about the speaker than about the culture.

There is no age at which a person becomes old. There is a set of institutions, each of which has picked a number for its own reasons, none of which agree.

The visible markers

What actually signals age is a small set of visible changes, and their social weight has shifted considerably.

Grey hair is the clearest single marker and the most easily altered, which is why hair colour is one of the largest categories in the industry. The social meaning of grey has shifted noticeably within living memory, and it differs sharply by gender in ways that have been documented in employment research.

Skin change is a mixture of intrinsic ageing and cumulative environmental exposure, principally ultraviolet radiation. This distinction is well established dermatologically and it matters for the history, because a great deal of what has been treated as inevitable ageing is photoageing, which is why the twentieth century enthusiasm for tanning described in the tanning essay has a long tail.

The menopause occupies a peculiar position: a universal biological event that was barely named in European medicine until the early nineteenth century, when the term was coined in French medical writing, and that was then medicalised, pathologised, ignored and rediscovered in successive waves. The recent surge of public discussion in Britain is best understood as one of those waves rather than as a first discovery.

The vocabulary problem

Regulators have taken an interest in the language, and the position in Britain is more interesting than it sounds. Advertising rules require objective claims to be substantiated, which means that a claim to reverse ageing is a claim about a physiological process and needs evidence, while a claim to reduce the appearance of lines is a claim about an optical effect and needs much less.

This has shaped the entire vocabulary of the category, as discussed in the essay on beauty copy. Anti ageing has been progressively replaced in marketing by terms including pro ageing, age positive and longevity, partly in response to changing sentiment and partly because the older term makes a claim that is harder to defend.

This magazine has no position on what anyone should do about any of this, and declines to acquire one. The historical observation is narrower and sturdier: the meaning of an ageing face is assigned rather than inherent, it has been assigned differently in different periods, and the current assignment is neither natural nor permanent.

Where to look

Readers who want to go further should start with the holdings themselves rather than with summaries of them. The legislation.gov.uk and the Royal Historical Society both publish catalogue and research material relevant to this article. Both links are given for reference only. Neither institution has been assessed by us, neither has any connection to this magazine, and nothing here is an endorsement of any organisation.

Questions readers send us

Did people really die in their thirties in the past?

No. Life expectancy at birth was low because infant and child mortality was extremely high, and averages across all deaths are dominated by them. A person who survived childhood had a reasonable prospect of reaching their fifties, sixties or beyond, and pre modern populations contained substantial numbers of older people.

When does old age begin?

There is no fixed threshold. Pension ages, retirement rules, census categories, insurance tables and medical guidelines each set their own boundary for their own reasons, and they do not agree. In Britain the 1908 pension threshold of seventy is a clear example of an administrative rather than a biological line.

Were older people respected more in the past?

The historical evidence does not support a simple answer either way. Standing depended heavily on property, income and useful skills. Older people with resources held authority; those without were dependent on family or on relief, and older women without property were among the most vulnerable members of early modern society.

What is the difference between ageing and photoageing?

Intrinsic ageing is the change that occurs with time regardless of exposure. Photoageing is the cumulative effect of ultraviolet radiation on skin, and it accounts for a substantial share of the visible changes commonly attributed to age alone. The distinction is well established in dermatology.

Why has anti ageing language changed?

Partly because of changing sentiment and partly for regulatory reasons. A claim to reverse ageing is a claim about a physiological process and requires substantiation; a claim about the appearance of lines is a claim about an optical effect and is easier to support. Terms such as pro ageing and longevity have moved into the space.

Sources consulted
  1. legislation.gov.uk The Old Age Pensions Act 1908 and subsequent pension and employment equality legislation.
  2. Royal Historical Society Scholarship on the history of old age, family and the life course.
  3. Wellcome Collection History of medicine including gerontology, menopause and the medicalisation of the life course.
  4. Advertising Standards Authority Rulings and guidance on anti ageing and cosmetic efficacy claims.
  5. The National Archives Census, poor law and pension administration records.
No commercial links. This article contains no affiliate links, no sponsored placements and no product recommendations. Glow Gazette is published by Glow Gazette and does not sell coverage, links or favourable mention. Paid entries appear only in the listings and are labelled there. What we will not sell is set out in the editorial standards.

The Gazette, four times a year

One long letter a quarter: what we have been reading, what turned out to be untrue, and what is worth going to see. No selling, because we have nothing to sell you.

Sponsor lineEach issue carries one sponsor line, labelled as such and set apart from the writing. Sponsors are shown the rate card, never the copy. See the rate card.